Jump to content

Welcome to Field to Farm Community
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!
Photo

Twin unit-splitting and transporting


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1
sodbuster

sodbuster

    Newbie

  • Book Owners
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
Hello forum. I need to split and transport a twin unit caravan and then refix together. It is to go from Worcestershire to the South West. I really need to know of a firm who does both, preferably based near Worcester. Getting a quote off somebody based in the South West to split the unit is prooving difficult as they need to go to Worcs to provide the quote, and they do not appear to be able to do both. As i say i think a firm who does both transport and splitting and based near Worcs would be ideal. Anyone know of anybody ?

Thanks SB
  • 0

#2
surreydodger

surreydodger

    Agricultural Planning Advisory Service

  • Book Owners
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,208 posts
  • LocationWest Sussex
Hi SB,

This may not fit your bill but it may be worth talking to Surf Bay Leisure at Winkleigh (north of Exeter). They split, delivered and sited my twin which I bought from them (from the SW to SE). What they did do was send a chap up to do a site visit and thus be able to give me a quote. They made it clear they would have to charge for such a trip as it was nigh on a 400 mile round trip but if I took up their quote they kept that charge pretty much at cost.

They did a pretty good job when all was said and done of being here on time, siting and erecting on top of a hill in awful weather,, two day job,, and keeping the cost reasonable.

Another firm that springs to mind is Harris Park Homes. They are moving twins all the time (they only deal in twins) and the fella Andy was also very obliging when we were looking. Ultimately we didn't use him but would have had he had the right twin in stock at the time.
  • 0

#3
sodbuster

sodbuster

    Newbie

  • Book Owners
  • PipPipPip
  • 148 posts
Thanks SD. Surf Bay do not do their own transport any more ( they have given me the number of a company they use) Harris homes only do their own stuff. I will keep trying.

SB
  • 0

#4
Canning Farm

Canning Farm

    Duckling

  • Book Owners
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
Surreydodger

It would be a useful post if you could give F2F readers something of a diary breakdown of the type of unit thatt you have (time permitting of course), of the materials you used, how it sits on the ground, connection to services etc and how your unit meets the planning criteria, and the arguements you had with the planners.

During the F2F fest you kindly explained to me how it all fitted together and it would be a useful exercise to explain to others what can be achived as opposed to say a static caravan.

Joe
  • 0

#5
surreydodger

surreydodger

    Agricultural Planning Advisory Service

  • Book Owners
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,208 posts
  • LocationWest Sussex
Hi Joe (hope your plans are still progressing well :))

We brought our twin, 45' x 20' as a bit of an oldie and rather outdated but fundamentally sound. It had the classic aluminium profile sheeting sidewalls with less than an inch (25mm) of polystyrene 'insulation' under that. The internal walls were made 1/4" (6mm) thick hardboard. The floor was just made from 15mm thick ply and nothing further. The roof had a zinc sheeting outer layer under which again, was the 25mm polystyrene insulation and then the hardboard inner lining.

I think I mentioned somewhere, that we moved in, in the middle of winter with tempretures hitting minus 10C or more outside and pretty much the same inside! It came fitted witha gas fire which was not totally useless,,, just pretty useless :)

Once we installed our 15Kw wood burner it was quite liveable but it had to be kept running flat out and we became adept (if a bit miffed) at getting up through the night to keep it stoked. If not, by morning you instantly knew the stove had gone out as the duvet had that slightly stiff feeling where it had frozen solid.

Come the Spring we did the refit.

The walls were totally removed (bit at a time) and replaced. The new wall framework was made of 100mm x 50mm timber. To the outside of this we nailed on a waterproof/weatherproof black membrane. Then we nailed on waney edged Scots Pine timber boarding. These boards is approx 20mm thick and between 150mm - 300mm wide. This then forms the outer skin.

Between the 100mm x 50mm timber framework we fitted 100mm thick solid foam, foil lined insulation boards (aka 'Kingspan' etc.) and then internally, we lined all the walls with 12mm plywood.

The roof was held up using 100mm x 50mm timber joists. As the easiest thing in the world was to just infill between the joists with the 100mm thick insulation sheets, thats what we did. To hold the insulation up and to give a pleasing finish (each to their own) we lined the ceiling with tongue and groove, pine cladding which is approx. 8mm thick.

Finally the floor. This again is being lined from underneth with the 100mm insulation (yes, we really did buy an artic truck load :)). We haven't quite finished it all yet but we can tell where there is some and where there isn't.

The other critical thing was fitting double glazing. The existing was the old classic, single glazing with cheapo aluminium frames. Nothing lets cold in like single glazing and if it has metal frames, even more so. We removed the lot and fitted all new double glazing. We fitted 18 new windows of various sizes, 2 sets of French doors and one rear door. I bought this lot from Armstrong's up in the Midlands (they were the double glazing company featured in one of those fly on the wall documentaries a couple of years ago on BBC 2,,, the guy who swore a lot and who ran it with his wife). I had no idea of their TV fame when I ordered and have to say I was impressed. I wanted 'cheap' and got UPVC units in white with a faux outer wooden finish and paid about £4,000 for the lot. The quality is actually very good for the money and I have no complaints. We could have paid more for a better quality of glass, one of those with better thermal qualities, but I am more than happy with the bog standard stuff.

Does it make a differenace and has it all been worthwhile?

Absolutely!

Unfortunately we haven't had as low a tempretures as we had last winter. The other night was the coldest so far and we really wouldn't have known it. We only refitted the wood burning stove just before Christmas (it'd been so mild we hadn't actually thought about it!!) and since then we've been in a bit of a pickle trying to keep it running on a very low heat. Bearing in mind it is just the one heater for the entire house, placed centrally to the home, that's pretty impressive. Last winter we could quite happily burn an entire wheelbarrowful of logs in one night. Now, a barrowful is lasting two or three days and that really does include the daytime as I only let it go out when the ash needs removing. True, we haven't had the cold weather of last year but I instinctively know we are miles ahead of last year for comfort and warmth thanks to all the works.

In regards to all the planning issues, none arise. We have not made the unit any bigger than it was and we have been careful, especially when constructing internal walls, to make sure the unit remains being able to be split into two halves. One thing we are aware of is that the unit is far heavier than original. Would it still be towable without breaking up,,,,,, ask an ingineer :)
  • 0

#6
Romany

Romany

    Farmer Giles

  • Book Owners
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 457 posts
Hi SD, thank you for that description - seems to me you've practically rebuilt the units and that nothing original remains!!

Did you allow for ventilation around the insulation? I'm given to understand that in a roof there should be a ventilation gap to prevent condensation, does this still apply in a static/mobile home? I'm also not sure whether this also applies to the floor?

I've been thinking for some time about doing the underfloor of my static in a similar way as you describe. How does it stay up? I was thinking of netting such as that used to hold insulation in basements but not sure if it would be appropriate given that it would actually be between the floor and the outside ground (and geese who like to wander underneath!!).

Romany
  • 0

#7
surreydodger

surreydodger

    Agricultural Planning Advisory Service

  • Book Owners
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,208 posts
  • LocationWest Sussex
Hi Romany,

We just cut the 100mm thick sheets to fit tightly between the steel chassis and support girders, making sure there was no gap between the insulation and the underside of the floor. We generally try and cut the sheeting so it fits with a bit of a tap and then we've cut some small wooden wedges which are hammered in between the edge of a sheet and the steel chassis.

You could use all sorts of things to hold it in place I guess. We just happened to choose wedging it in and making it a tight fit. This might all drop out one day, who knows but if it does, I'm sure we'll think of a better way.

I'm not sure it's goose proof though the dogs go under and it stays up and also the other day a lamb popped up having been under there for a bit of an explore!!

As to ventilation issues we haven't noticed any yet but then we are a kinda window open a lot sort of family
  • 0